I also have a laptop, which may be an option but prefer not, open to sugestions if thats much easier/free Receiver has S-video & component outs, but being a new model its probably going to downscale to 420/520, yay Marantz for not being specific here! My projector doesnt have Component Level input, contrary to what review sites will tell you if u google this modelīut I do have composite in, & could technically buy 2 converter cables, 1 for HDMI to component & then componenet to composite, doable?Īlso looked at people selling HDMI to VGA + Analog Audio out boxes rather than cables, any idea if they are all HDCP compliant?
My understanding is that using 2 cables, 1 for HDMI to DVI & 1 for DVI to VGA wont work, true? Ive been pondering buying a cheapo HDMI to DVI/VGA type cable, but as you experts know its complicated. So, my question is whats the best way forward? Yay Dell for not publishing detailed spcecs. Im guessing its not HDCP compliant, but can anyone make my day by telling me otherwise? Projector Native XGA 1024x768 scalable to 1600x1200īut some specs are ambiguous saying its also 1080i, doesnt make sense to me, anyone? I have a Marantz SR6004 receiver with hdmi out which Id like to use to connect to this projector - preferably. If both your CRT and console support S-Video, that might be a cheaper solution when available.Ive got a Dell 2400 MP projector which has VGA, composite & s-video inputs.
#Component video to vga converter ebay 240p
Here’s the POT’s I tweaked, but YouTube user Billkwando also has a good video about it:Īs an FYI, if you’re using a 240p console on a basic, consumer-grade CRT, you won’t see a big difference between RGB (or component) and S-Video…and it’s certainly not as drastic a difference as seen on high-end displays. I didn’t have as good results with the clone’s though I had to tweak the tuning POT’s before it looked right, which should never be necessary with analog video. It was tested and verified on an oscilloscope and it works with 240p, 480i and 480p.ĬSY-2100 & Clones I tested both a CSY-2100 SCART to Y-U-V converter and a clone system (the clones look similar to the one in the upper left picture, but have the screws on the sides, not front. The original CSY-2100 seemed to work well, however they’re expensive and hard to find. Shinybow SB-2840 This is a great converter, but the recent release of the much cheaper RetroTINK products has bumped it to second in line. These should preserve the signal quality, while allowing an easy way to convert the signals. The “RetroTINK” line of products includes a transcoder that converts between RGB and component. For more info, please check out my upscaler comparison page, as it describes in detail the difference between using RGB to component, vs an upscaler. They might even work well on your flat-screen TV, depending on compatibility. If you’re using a consumer-grade CRT that only has component inputs, these are the best choice. There are a few scenarios where converting RGB to component would be the right choice for your particular setup. This should always result in a zero-lag solution, with video quality varying. To start, I’d like to make the clarification that in this context, converters just change the signal type There’s no scaling or processing of the image. There are many different reasons you’d want to convert a signal and this page will slowly grow to discuss all of them.
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